Some loneliness is good for the soul

Shaoxing showcases the country's ancient history and culture.

 

 

 

 

By Huang Daohen

“When I was young, I, too, had many dreams. Most of them I later forgot, but I see nothing in this to regret. For althugh recalling the past may bring happiness, at times it cannot but bring loneliness, and what is the point of clinging in spirit to lonely bygone days?”

These are the words of Lu Xun (1881-1936), dubbed the Father of Modern Chinese Literature. But surely Lu had fond memories of Shaoxing, the city in Zhejiang Province where he was born and grew up. Nicknamed The Venice of China, it is a great place to cool off in summer, as well as a storehouse of information on history, traditional literature and calligraphy.

Lu Xun’s Former Residence

A one-day tour of Shaoxing is usually enough for visitors – and it starts at Lu Xun’s Former Residence, the city’s top tourist attraction, drawing people whosh to pay tribute to one of the country’s best-known writers and poets.

Lu, a local hero, is considered one of the leading intellectuals of the May Fourth Movement and one of the greatest modern writers.

Located in the center of Shaoxing, the former residence, which has been restored to its original condition, consists of places that appeared in Lu’s writings. One of them is Xianheng Restaurant, which became the setting for his short tory “Kong Yiji.”

To the east is Sanweishuwu or Three Flavor Study, the private school Lu attended as a child.
Parallel the house is a small canal, from which visitors can view the residence aboard little wooden boats called wupeng.

The site charges no admission, but signs are largely in Chinese, so you may need to bring a translator.

The next stop is this garden opposite the entrance to Lu’s former residence This is the ideal place to find some peace and quiet after battling the throngs across the road.

Shen Yuan, built as a private garden during the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), was rediscovered and romanticized when it featured in the tragic love story between the poet Lu You (1125-1210) and his lover Tang Wan.

The couple adored each other, but had to separate to conform to their family’s wishes. Years later, the two met in the garden and Lu wroe a heartbreakingly sad poem for his beloved.

In the garden is a stone memorial on which words from Lu You’s poem are engraved.

This park is one of the country’s most popular historical ites, a shrine to Emperor Da Yu, the reputed founder of the Xia Dynasty (2070-1600 BC) and known in mythology as the Tamer of the Flood.

Visitors can rent a tourist cart (10 yuan) to get around, but a walk around the park is suggested. A nature lover can easily spend a whole day exploring places.

Its main path is lined with stone animal statues, each with a story about its significance to Yu The Great.

Kuaiji has a lake on which people can go boating, and by the water’s edge is a square in which ceremonies or special activities are held.

The park’s basic 50-yuan admission ticket allows visitors to see three of its four main atractions. One is the Ancient Village, which showcases Emperor Yu’s life story, as well as his mausoleum and buildings associated with him and his family. Another is a pavilion that contains magnificent photos of a famous opera about the emperor.

The third is the Bird Garden, which houses peacocks, black swans, ducks, geese and many other birds.

How to get there: Take Bus 2 or 11 to the park

Night-time canal ride

After a full day visiting historical sites, a canal ride is the best way to cap off a visit to Shaoxing – nicknamed The Venice of China because of its maze of canals and fleets of wupeng boats.

For 50 yuan, people can hop on one of the small wooden boats for a night-time outing. The boats have black awnings and are propelled by boatmen who work a long oar with their feet.

In ancient times, the boats were the primary means of transportation around Shaoxing. Today, they are a big tourist favorite.

The hour-long trip usually begins at 7:30 pm; the shroud of darkness allows visitors to better see the lights on the ancient bridges and on the buildings along the canals. Free tea is offered on board; it is prepared by tour guides right in front of visitors.

Those who find themselves uneasy at the unaccustomed peace and quiet in Shaoxing should take heart: a little loneliness is good for the soul, no matter what Lu Xun may have said.

The Orchid Pavilion

Another must-see in Shaoxing is Lanting, the Orchid Pavilion, associated with Wang Xizhi (321-379), a renowned calligrapher from the Eastern Jin Dynasty (318-420).

Located at the foot of Orchid Hill, the park is considered sacred both by the Chinese people and calligraphers overseas. It charges an admission fee of 40 yuan.

The park contains a river, temples, several pavilions and bamboo groves. It was built to commemorate an event in AD 353, in which Wang gathered 41 other poets to create poetry and celebrate life. The artists apparently wrote down verses in calligraphy while enjoying wine along a creek.

They allowed a cup of wine to float on the water, and the person before which the cup stopped was required to pick it up, drink its contents and compose a poem. It is said that 26 of them wrote 37 poems during that gathering.

Throughout the site is visitor information in Chinese and English. There are several booths in which visitors can watch calligraphers at work and purchase calligraphic materials. On the way to the exit is a scenic village that sells more souvenirs.

How to get there: Take Bus 3 or 303 from Shengli Road, or catch a bus near the city square.

About Shaoxing

Located in the northern part of Zhejiang Province and south of Hangzhou Bay, Shaoxing is a city steeped in history, culture and nature. It is known as The Venice of China because of its network of canals, and boasts of 229 ancient bridges. It is sheltered by the Kuaiji Mountains and features beautiful lakes and rivers.

Travel Information

Transportation

Trains run between Shaoxing and Hangzhou, Ningbo and Shanghai every day. Buses from Shaoxing to Shanghai (70 yuan) leave every 30 minutes, while those to Hangzhou (22 yuan) leave every 10 minutes.

Accommodation

The city has a host of hotels to suit different tastes; budget accommodation is easy to find.

Food

Local food features Shaoxing yellow rice wine, and its main ingredients are freshwater fish, poultry and bean products. A popular dish is Shaoxing chicken.